Nordkapp • Only 2000 Kilometers Away

About one week into the trip and, now, already tired, I looked hard at the map. I unfolded that big map and took a long, careful stare. I traced my finger along the path I’d be traveling. I sighed. Then I flipped the map and saw the other half of the country. Sweden is a monstrosity. Most people live around a small number of urban centers like the capital Stockholm. The rest of the country is forests, lakes and mosquitoes.I began to doubt myself. What had motivated me to think I could or wanted to cycle 2000 plus kilometers. This was fun? I could be drinking cafe latte and chilling out in my vintage Berlin apartment right now. But now I didn’t have much to go back to. I had to go forward.

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Morning came quickly and I rode past Ales stenar (Ale’s Stones) a 1000+ year old kind of stonehenge. The massive rocks sit on a grassy cliff overlooking the sea. Together the boulders form the outline of a ship. How, 1000 years ago, did they manage to get each of these 1 tonne boulders up here in the first place? More amazing is the fact that the stones are exactly aligned with the sun. At the winter and summer Solstices, the sun slices exactly down the middle of the ship (boulders S15 and N14). What kind of unhuman patience made it possible for these ancient Swedish builders to set up this site with such precision – without machines, GPS or even a scrap of paper.

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A few days later, Sweden’s medieval past pulled me to the Glimmingehus, built in 1499. This was the Ritz Carlton of the day, a stone house with a real fireplaces. Swarming the castle were kids, grandparents, tattooed and slightly overweight parents all with blond or dark-died hair. Their clean and fancy cars stretched far down the country road. In the castle courtyard, visitors squeezed sausages into their mouths and washed it down with beer.

A few kilometers farther down the road I cycled pass a much different crowd. Their cars were old and dulled with dirt with license plates from Poland and Romania. They too parked along the country road but next to a strawberry field. It was lunch time and many of the migrant workers sat in their cars and nibbled from packed lunches.
Enjoy the break, my friend. You still 2,349 kilometers to go.

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